This vest is made my Tactical Airsoft Gear of China. It uses a MOLLE system in which it is covered in webbing that the pouches attach to. It comes with two (2) double rifle mag pouches, two (2) double pistol mag pouches, and two (2) utility pouches. The rifle mag pouches can hold two magazines each for a total capacity of eight mags, plenty for any skirmisher. The pistol mag pouches allow the user to carry four pistol mags. Both the pistol and rifle mag pouches have velcro covers which are both fast to open and secure. The utility pouches have zip tops. Each utility pouch has a large capacity that can fit nearly three 3000 round bags of bbs. There is also a hydration/plate carrier on the rear. Because it is a MOLLE system pouches can be bought and added to optimize your load out. The rubber pieces on the shoulder straps are weird looking in my opinion and don't serve a real purpose. Otherwise, I like the layout of the vest.
The vest has a very aggressive look. The flash accentuates the difference in color between the straps and the rest of the carrier, in normal light the colors look much better.
This was taken without flash to show the true colors of the vest (all others are taken with flash to show the maximum detail.)
The vest is lined with a lot of padding, more so than I have ever had in another vest. As a result it is very comfortable but hugely bulky. Stupidly bulky. This is probably the biggest flaw of the vest, the size of it seriously hinders your agility and maneuverability. It sits in the middle of the chest over the vital organs just like a plate carrier should. There are adjustable straps on both the top and sides to adjust the fit. However, at its smallest setting it is about a medium, those under 140lbs may have a little bit of looseness even after the vest is fully tightened. The construction of the vest is quite sturdy. The materials seem rigid and there were no errors in stitching or otherwise. I feel like this vest could take some serious abuse and remain undamaged. One area that does concern me is where the two straps at the top of the vest connect. The straps are held together by a metal bolt, this area could be worn and torn after prolonged use.The point where the shoulder straps meets the rear of the vets is held together with metal bolts.
The vest also has a ciras like detachment feature. By pulling out three cords the vest falls away into several parts. In the real world this is used when a soldier has been trapped by his vest in debris, caught, or otherwise held up by the vest. That soldier could then pull the cords and free himself. In airsoft however it is utterly useless, and simply a huge pain to put back together again once it comes apart.
Pros:
-Strong materials.
-Good value for money.
-Good looking.
Cons:
-Bulky.
-Quick release feature is lame and does nothing.
-Color difference between shoulder straps and the rest of the vest.
If you like the look of this vest then consider buying it, however it's definitely not on par with some of the higher end stuff out there. It's worth the investment to grab a high end plate carrier such as the ones offered by Condor. If you don't want to spend a lot of money and will only be using it for backyard wars, this might be what you're looking for... otherwise, move on.
Original article at: http://www.airsoftreview.net/cms_view_article.php?aid=75
www.discountairsoftstore.com
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Friday, August 20, 2010
First time airsoft gun buyers guide
Introduction-
The question of “What gun should I buy” is asked over and over again on forums. No matter how many different forums you post this question on, you will always get different answers from several different people which won't be so helpful. In this guide I am going to give you some tips to help you choose the correct weapon for you or help you narrow down what it is you are looking for so when asking a similar question on a forum it won't be so generic. One thing to remember is you do not need to spend a lot of money to get a good airsoft gun.
Weapon Purpose-
What will you be using the gun for? If:
Indoor - Look for guns that have rails (for tac lights, or have integrated lights) and a barrel shorter than 14" (for maneuverability)
Outdoor - Look for guns that have a 14-20" barrel and easy to get/cheap magazines
Both - Look for a gun that with an 11-14" barrel, has easy to get/cheap mags and can carry a tac light
Gun Variants-
There are a lot of different gun variants on the market today. When looking to buy your replica, figure out what gun variants catch your eye the most. Being able to narrow it down to a couple different variants will make searching much easier. The most common variants on the field are the M16/M4 and AK. If you're considering buying a sniper rifle as your first gun, don't. Start out with a AEG and once you get a hang of the sport then look into it. Snipers who are just starting out in the sport are usually looked down upon in most airsoft communities.
Common AEG variants
Magazines-
Most mags are very simple and will fit into most vest pouches without any problems. M16/Mp5/AK mags are the most common. P90 mags are long and skinny and pouches are expensive and are hard to find. G36/Sig mags are fatter then most and have build in tabs that allow you to connect your mags together without having a mag clamp used for ak's and Mp5's. The G36/Sig mags usually will have to be disconnected before fitting into a pouch.
Price & Manufacture-
When starting your search know your price range. Being able to know how much your willing to spend will allow you to eliminate the companies that don’t match up with that price range. If your price limit is low, its usually better to just hold off on buying and save up for a little while longer until you can afford something a little nicer.
Your price range will factor into this.
<$100: BE, Galaxy, Aftermath - These all suck
$100-$200: CYMA, Dboys, Echo1, JG - Less suck. Mostly plastic bodies and iffy Quality control.
$200-$300: CA, SRC, TM, G&G - These will be your mainstay models with better performance and upgrade potential
$300+: G&P, Inokotsu, WE-GBB, WA-GBB - Display models, or blowbacks for cool factor
What to look for-
When buying look at what the body is made out of. M16/M4 come in plastic and metal bodies. The plastic can cause barrel wobble and has tabs that can brake off. When buying an M16/M4 I highly recommend spending the extra money on any gun variant and get a metal body.
Where to buy-
As airsoft grows bigger, more airsoft stores are popping up all over the world. First check to see if you have an airsoft store near you before ordering online. It is best to support your local businesses. Don't always take advice from retailers on what gun to buy though due to the fact some retailers will try and sell you on a gun they will make the most profit on instead of what is best for you. There are many online retailers these days that are very reliable. Shop around and find what places has the best reputation and who has been in business for a while before making an order.
http://www.airsoftreview.net/cms_view_article.php?aid=74
www.discountairsoftstore.com
The question of “What gun should I buy” is asked over and over again on forums. No matter how many different forums you post this question on, you will always get different answers from several different people which won't be so helpful. In this guide I am going to give you some tips to help you choose the correct weapon for you or help you narrow down what it is you are looking for so when asking a similar question on a forum it won't be so generic. One thing to remember is you do not need to spend a lot of money to get a good airsoft gun.
Weapon Purpose-
What will you be using the gun for? If:
Indoor - Look for guns that have rails (for tac lights, or have integrated lights) and a barrel shorter than 14" (for maneuverability)
Outdoor - Look for guns that have a 14-20" barrel and easy to get/cheap magazines
Both - Look for a gun that with an 11-14" barrel, has easy to get/cheap mags and can carry a tac light
Gun Variants-
There are a lot of different gun variants on the market today. When looking to buy your replica, figure out what gun variants catch your eye the most. Being able to narrow it down to a couple different variants will make searching much easier. The most common variants on the field are the M16/M4 and AK. If you're considering buying a sniper rifle as your first gun, don't. Start out with a AEG and once you get a hang of the sport then look into it. Snipers who are just starting out in the sport are usually looked down upon in most airsoft communities.
Common AEG variants
Magazines-
Most mags are very simple and will fit into most vest pouches without any problems. M16/Mp5/AK mags are the most common. P90 mags are long and skinny and pouches are expensive and are hard to find. G36/Sig mags are fatter then most and have build in tabs that allow you to connect your mags together without having a mag clamp used for ak's and Mp5's. The G36/Sig mags usually will have to be disconnected before fitting into a pouch.
Price & Manufacture-
When starting your search know your price range. Being able to know how much your willing to spend will allow you to eliminate the companies that don’t match up with that price range. If your price limit is low, its usually better to just hold off on buying and save up for a little while longer until you can afford something a little nicer.
Your price range will factor into this.
<$100: BE, Galaxy, Aftermath - These all suck
$100-$200: CYMA, Dboys, Echo1, JG - Less suck. Mostly plastic bodies and iffy Quality control.
$200-$300: CA, SRC, TM, G&G - These will be your mainstay models with better performance and upgrade potential
$300+: G&P, Inokotsu, WE-GBB, WA-GBB - Display models, or blowbacks for cool factor
What to look for-
When buying look at what the body is made out of. M16/M4 come in plastic and metal bodies. The plastic can cause barrel wobble and has tabs that can brake off. When buying an M16/M4 I highly recommend spending the extra money on any gun variant and get a metal body.
Where to buy-
As airsoft grows bigger, more airsoft stores are popping up all over the world. First check to see if you have an airsoft store near you before ordering online. It is best to support your local businesses. Don't always take advice from retailers on what gun to buy though due to the fact some retailers will try and sell you on a gun they will make the most profit on instead of what is best for you. There are many online retailers these days that are very reliable. Shop around and find what places has the best reputation and who has been in business for a while before making an order.
http://www.airsoftreview.net/cms_view_article.php?aid=74
www.discountairsoftstore.com
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Classic Army M15A4 Rifle
http://www.airsoftpacific.com/content.php?page=31
www.discountairsoftstore.com
Introduction
Classic Army entered the M4/M16 market with a rather hazardous start. Having recently almost perfected the MP5 series by correcting past issues, CA went back to the drawing board to build a variety of AR variants. One of our players ordered a Classic Army M16A3 (version 3) and was less than impressed by it. The slip collar was so poorly designed that the entire front end of the replica would fall off, it shipped with a broken selector switch that would not go into full auto and the trademarks left much to be desired.

Enter Armalite. Classic Army resolved to fix the issues that plagued the previous versions of M16 variants and partnered with Armalite to produce its new line of Armalite trademarked M15 variants under the A4 version number. Each replica has its own serial number engraved in the receiver. CA’s continuous development of this product is a true testament that they’re a company working to serve the US mil-sim market. The Armalite replicas go leaps and bounds beyond what the previous versions have, yet still many would-be customers are skeptic. To that end, we’ve ordered and tested several variants of the CA M15A4 platform. In particular, two full length M15A4 rifles, an SPC variant, and an M4. This review will focus on the full length versions, but since the parts are standard, many parts of it refer to the others as well.
The Interior
All of Classic Army’s newest replicas come pre-installed with metal bushings. The M15A4 Rifle comes equipped with standard metal bushings, although some newer models (such as the SPC) come with 7mm bearing bushings. By just cracking the gearbox open, you can instantly see how much more reinforced the CA box is compared to a Tokyo Marui model. There’s no extra open space, and it’s completely reinforced wherever possible.
The M15A4 comes standard with a high-torque motor, easily comparable to Marui’s EG1000. This looks great on paper, but even if you upgrade, just about any motor will do. Some players have complained about CA’s motors in the past, but we haven’t noticed any problems with any of the variants that our team uses. The stock hopup mechanism is an all metal one-piece setup, much like the Systema, but unfortunately it doesn’t perform like the Systema unit. Users have complained about the hopup “backing off” on its own after the AEG has had some time to break in.
Our crack team of weaponsmiths here at Airsoftpacific have come up with a simple and very effective solution to the issue of the hopup backing off. This phenomenon is most likely due the fact that the small set screw on the adjustment gear on the hopup unit cannot be tightened sufficiently to put enough tension on the gear to keep it in place. To fix the problem, we used a very inexpensive tiny washer between the set screw and the gear (see the image below). This fix allows you to tighten the screw on the adjustment gear to put as much tension on it as you want. It also saves you the money you would have spent on a more expensive hopup unit to fix a problem with the pilot hole depth on a set screw.

There’s also a retainer ring that can theoretically work itself back too far and stop the hop-up from functioning correctly (or at all), but that’s a quick fix (remove the ring). This feature is also standard on many other one-piece hopup units, not just the CA, which are vulnerable to the same issue.
The inner barrel is definitely not a tight-bore, some users complain that Marui’s stock barrels are better. Having fired a stock Marui M16A2 in comparison, we honestly can’t tell the difference. However, a stock barrel is a stock barrel. For an increase in accuracy and maybe an extra foot or two per second velocity, you’re going to want to drop in a tight bore inner barrel.
The trigger assembly on one of our test platforms has been a bit problematic for semi-auto. When switching directly from safe to semi, sometimes the trigger locks. When it does this, the only way to get it to stop is to switch to full and fire a burst. This is the first time we’ve heard of this, and it may be a quirk specific only to that particular AEG, since we haven’t heard any complaints from our team members about the issue.
The Exterior
Nothing short of amazing. We haven’t heard a lot of complaining about any of the external parts. The metal body has an amazing finish with awesome laser engraved trademarks in white, definitely better quality than previous versions, and it comes standard with locking receiver pins.

The furniture is made from a high quality fiber reinforced polymer with a textured surface, you will notice instantly how much higher quality this feels over Marui’s furniture. The pistol grip reminds us of those on real steel AR’s. For some reason, the stock grips on other M4 style variants just aren’t as comfortable.
One issue that has cropped up on at least two of the CA’s that are floating around here is that the bottom front of the buttstock seems to be a stress point. With a large heavy battery and a propensity to be thrown around and fallen on in the bush, the stock split down the seam. This can be prevented by dropping a little JB Weld inside along the bottom of the stock before use to add that little bit of extra strength and lifetime. It would probably also help to avoid falling on the replica like a real M16 when diving for the mud, and trying to avoid battering down doors with it. This issue obviously only appeared in the models with a full stock, then, only because the buttstock on an AEG, must, by it’s nature, be hollow.
Despite this, the furniture is rock solid and you can feel it when you hold the gun. As with the other CA replicas, they just somehow feel better, sturdier in your hands than other brands. Barrel-wobble is non-existent. With a Tokyo Marui M16A2, you end up using the plumber’s tape modification to keep things tightened, but the barrel on the CA doesn’t even budge. We’ve thrown slings on it, leaned it up against things and even banged it up against a few trees by accident. For almost the entire first month of its life on the field, it was used by friends who borrowed it while we were evaluating a Systema PTWS. It’s always a worry to leave an AEG in the hands of others, but when it was given back, it felt every bit as solid as it did the day it was pulled from the box.
The cocking lever is solid reinforced steel and makes a very pleasing sound when snapped back into place. Unlike Marui’s AEGs, the cocking lever doesn’t release the dust cover so that you can adjust the hop-up. Instead, CA’s dust cover is secured by a magnet inside. In many ways this is great, because the catch on Marui’s M4/M16 would often wear out, leaving your dust cover open and your hop-up exposed to the elements. On the downside, the dust cover on the ejection port is difficult to open with gloves on in the field to make adjustments to the hopup. This is just a minor issue, but it is a nuisance.

Metal parts include everything but the furniture, which isn’t supposed to be metal. The forward assist knob can be pushed in, but doesn’t have any specific function to the replica itself. The carry handle on this M15A4 model can be removed, but you can also get the A2 model with the fixed handle. Front and rear sights are metal and fully adjustable. Sling mounts are also metal and solid for use with sling carry.
The outer barrel is a very solid one-piece unit and the fore-grip locks very tightly into place. The delta ring has an extremely powerful spring, which might have something do with that. The standard flashhider is also very high quality, no complaints there.
Durability
If you haven’t noticed, the trend for this review has basically been that Classic Army has addressed just about every major issue that most AEGs have had in the past and has fixed them or at least improved upon them.
People lose receiver pins all the time, so they’ve got locking receiver pins. People break the upper receiver tabs on most M4 or M16 models, so they’ve got metal receiver rings. Have you ever seen your stock grip on an M4A1 break, especially when you’ve got heavy optics or accessories hanging from your RIS? Say hello to the reinforced fiber grip. How about stripping the stock grip? That’s really a pain when the motor plate won’t stay on anymore, but this problem is solved with CA’s grip because the screws go directly into metal and not plastic.
Heavy optics or optical mounts were known to break the rail clean off of a Marui M4, but this is not a problem with CA’s metal body.
The reinforced gearboxes have stood the test of time with extensive spring upgrades. The gears and motors churn through those tough springs without a hiccup (and without loosing their teeth). Bottom line, these guns are tough. We play tough and they keep up. We’ve had them shooting water and mud right out of the end of the barrel after crawling through creeks and falling down hills, and they never crap out in the rain or snow.
Upgrade Options
Not to belabor the Marui vs. Classic Army subject, but when it comes to upgrade options, this is another area where the two greatly differ. You see, Classic Army’s external parts are built more with the real-steel specifications in mind. Many upgrades that you can buy specifically for Tokyo Marui M16 variants will not work with any Classic Army models. Products like Sun Project’s M203 hard-mount come specifically with Tokyo Marui mounts but not with Classic Army mounts. When ordering parts, you need to make sure they’re NOT specifically designed for Marui models. Classic Army also makes a line of exterior accessories including; RIS rails, M203s, optical mounts, furniture, stocks, and much more.
Internally, they’re about the same. Your typical version2/3 gearbox parts are compatible with Classic Army’s gearbox. You can get reinforced gears (not likely you’ll need them), bore-up cylinder kits, nozzles, springs, tappet plates and so on. The best thing about upgrading a CA is that they already have metal bushings and great reinforced gears, all you need to do is swap out the spring.
One of our test models has been running continually with a Systema bore up kit and a PDI 150 spring on stock gears and motors since the day we bought it about 2 years ago. The gun was used every weekend (minus one or two every other month) in the wet Oregon environment. The stock gears and motor held up fine, but gear box finally gave up the ghost and cracked. When stress fracturing was evident along the front of the gearbox, JB Weld was applied and we got another game out of it before it died. This is a more than pleasing performance, as many highly upgraded guns don’t last even half this long before suffering some sort of breakdown.
Tactically Speaking
Nothing makes us laugh more then when somebody who bought an MP5K asks in the forums, “how do I increase accuracy and range of my AEG?” Well, first you can start with buying a real rifle. The Classic Army M15A4 Rifle is not a great indoor CQC tool, in fact, it’s not even that versatile to use anywhere but outdoors. Still, that’s how many of our players like it. If you’re the type of player who has his outdoor rig and his indoor rig, for the outdoors there’s nothing better than a good full length rifle. With that 509mm inner barrel, there’s just no way that an M4 length AR can compare.
With a tightbore barrel and a few FPS upgrades we shoot well enough to compete with the bolt action kiddies who think they’re sniper elites. (Though those who actually are good with their bolts can still manage to out plink us as it should be.)
If you’re looking for a quiet gun, this isn’t it. The stock AEG makes a beefy racket when fired. Now AEG’s obviously can’t compare to the noise of the real steel version, but you can tell when someone’s in the bushes firing one of these at you. The distinctive “clack-clack” is recognizable around the field. Depending on how you approach airsoft, this is a good or a bad thing. If you’re into the mil-sim aspect, the loudness only adds to the experience.
The Bottom Line
Overall we’re extremely happy with my M15A4. It’s obvious that Classic Army is a company that’s looking out for the future of mil-sim. They’re targeting the US market and they’re doing what they can to create products that we as mil-sim Airsofters can enjoy using time after time, and with the enhanced durability that their new lines are showing, we here at Airsoftpacific are sure to be making good use of their products for many years to come.

www.discountairsoftstore.com
Introduction
Classic Army entered the M4/M16 market with a rather hazardous start. Having recently almost perfected the MP5 series by correcting past issues, CA went back to the drawing board to build a variety of AR variants. One of our players ordered a Classic Army M16A3 (version 3) and was less than impressed by it. The slip collar was so poorly designed that the entire front end of the replica would fall off, it shipped with a broken selector switch that would not go into full auto and the trademarks left much to be desired.

Enter Armalite. Classic Army resolved to fix the issues that plagued the previous versions of M16 variants and partnered with Armalite to produce its new line of Armalite trademarked M15 variants under the A4 version number. Each replica has its own serial number engraved in the receiver. CA’s continuous development of this product is a true testament that they’re a company working to serve the US mil-sim market. The Armalite replicas go leaps and bounds beyond what the previous versions have, yet still many would-be customers are skeptic. To that end, we’ve ordered and tested several variants of the CA M15A4 platform. In particular, two full length M15A4 rifles, an SPC variant, and an M4. This review will focus on the full length versions, but since the parts are standard, many parts of it refer to the others as well.
The Interior
All of Classic Army’s newest replicas come pre-installed with metal bushings. The M15A4 Rifle comes equipped with standard metal bushings, although some newer models (such as the SPC) come with 7mm bearing bushings. By just cracking the gearbox open, you can instantly see how much more reinforced the CA box is compared to a Tokyo Marui model. There’s no extra open space, and it’s completely reinforced wherever possible.
The M15A4 comes standard with a high-torque motor, easily comparable to Marui’s EG1000. This looks great on paper, but even if you upgrade, just about any motor will do. Some players have complained about CA’s motors in the past, but we haven’t noticed any problems with any of the variants that our team uses. The stock hopup mechanism is an all metal one-piece setup, much like the Systema, but unfortunately it doesn’t perform like the Systema unit. Users have complained about the hopup “backing off” on its own after the AEG has had some time to break in.
Our crack team of weaponsmiths here at Airsoftpacific have come up with a simple and very effective solution to the issue of the hopup backing off. This phenomenon is most likely due the fact that the small set screw on the adjustment gear on the hopup unit cannot be tightened sufficiently to put enough tension on the gear to keep it in place. To fix the problem, we used a very inexpensive tiny washer between the set screw and the gear (see the image below). This fix allows you to tighten the screw on the adjustment gear to put as much tension on it as you want. It also saves you the money you would have spent on a more expensive hopup unit to fix a problem with the pilot hole depth on a set screw.

There’s also a retainer ring that can theoretically work itself back too far and stop the hop-up from functioning correctly (or at all), but that’s a quick fix (remove the ring). This feature is also standard on many other one-piece hopup units, not just the CA, which are vulnerable to the same issue.
The inner barrel is definitely not a tight-bore, some users complain that Marui’s stock barrels are better. Having fired a stock Marui M16A2 in comparison, we honestly can’t tell the difference. However, a stock barrel is a stock barrel. For an increase in accuracy and maybe an extra foot or two per second velocity, you’re going to want to drop in a tight bore inner barrel.
The trigger assembly on one of our test platforms has been a bit problematic for semi-auto. When switching directly from safe to semi, sometimes the trigger locks. When it does this, the only way to get it to stop is to switch to full and fire a burst. This is the first time we’ve heard of this, and it may be a quirk specific only to that particular AEG, since we haven’t heard any complaints from our team members about the issue.
The Exterior
Nothing short of amazing. We haven’t heard a lot of complaining about any of the external parts. The metal body has an amazing finish with awesome laser engraved trademarks in white, definitely better quality than previous versions, and it comes standard with locking receiver pins.

The furniture is made from a high quality fiber reinforced polymer with a textured surface, you will notice instantly how much higher quality this feels over Marui’s furniture. The pistol grip reminds us of those on real steel AR’s. For some reason, the stock grips on other M4 style variants just aren’t as comfortable.
One issue that has cropped up on at least two of the CA’s that are floating around here is that the bottom front of the buttstock seems to be a stress point. With a large heavy battery and a propensity to be thrown around and fallen on in the bush, the stock split down the seam. This can be prevented by dropping a little JB Weld inside along the bottom of the stock before use to add that little bit of extra strength and lifetime. It would probably also help to avoid falling on the replica like a real M16 when diving for the mud, and trying to avoid battering down doors with it. This issue obviously only appeared in the models with a full stock, then, only because the buttstock on an AEG, must, by it’s nature, be hollow.
Despite this, the furniture is rock solid and you can feel it when you hold the gun. As with the other CA replicas, they just somehow feel better, sturdier in your hands than other brands. Barrel-wobble is non-existent. With a Tokyo Marui M16A2, you end up using the plumber’s tape modification to keep things tightened, but the barrel on the CA doesn’t even budge. We’ve thrown slings on it, leaned it up against things and even banged it up against a few trees by accident. For almost the entire first month of its life on the field, it was used by friends who borrowed it while we were evaluating a Systema PTWS. It’s always a worry to leave an AEG in the hands of others, but when it was given back, it felt every bit as solid as it did the day it was pulled from the box.
The cocking lever is solid reinforced steel and makes a very pleasing sound when snapped back into place. Unlike Marui’s AEGs, the cocking lever doesn’t release the dust cover so that you can adjust the hop-up. Instead, CA’s dust cover is secured by a magnet inside. In many ways this is great, because the catch on Marui’s M4/M16 would often wear out, leaving your dust cover open and your hop-up exposed to the elements. On the downside, the dust cover on the ejection port is difficult to open with gloves on in the field to make adjustments to the hopup. This is just a minor issue, but it is a nuisance.

Metal parts include everything but the furniture, which isn’t supposed to be metal. The forward assist knob can be pushed in, but doesn’t have any specific function to the replica itself. The carry handle on this M15A4 model can be removed, but you can also get the A2 model with the fixed handle. Front and rear sights are metal and fully adjustable. Sling mounts are also metal and solid for use with sling carry.
The outer barrel is a very solid one-piece unit and the fore-grip locks very tightly into place. The delta ring has an extremely powerful spring, which might have something do with that. The standard flashhider is also very high quality, no complaints there.
Durability
If you haven’t noticed, the trend for this review has basically been that Classic Army has addressed just about every major issue that most AEGs have had in the past and has fixed them or at least improved upon them.
People lose receiver pins all the time, so they’ve got locking receiver pins. People break the upper receiver tabs on most M4 or M16 models, so they’ve got metal receiver rings. Have you ever seen your stock grip on an M4A1 break, especially when you’ve got heavy optics or accessories hanging from your RIS? Say hello to the reinforced fiber grip. How about stripping the stock grip? That’s really a pain when the motor plate won’t stay on anymore, but this problem is solved with CA’s grip because the screws go directly into metal and not plastic.
Heavy optics or optical mounts were known to break the rail clean off of a Marui M4, but this is not a problem with CA’s metal body.
The reinforced gearboxes have stood the test of time with extensive spring upgrades. The gears and motors churn through those tough springs without a hiccup (and without loosing their teeth). Bottom line, these guns are tough. We play tough and they keep up. We’ve had them shooting water and mud right out of the end of the barrel after crawling through creeks and falling down hills, and they never crap out in the rain or snow.
Upgrade Options
Not to belabor the Marui vs. Classic Army subject, but when it comes to upgrade options, this is another area where the two greatly differ. You see, Classic Army’s external parts are built more with the real-steel specifications in mind. Many upgrades that you can buy specifically for Tokyo Marui M16 variants will not work with any Classic Army models. Products like Sun Project’s M203 hard-mount come specifically with Tokyo Marui mounts but not with Classic Army mounts. When ordering parts, you need to make sure they’re NOT specifically designed for Marui models. Classic Army also makes a line of exterior accessories including; RIS rails, M203s, optical mounts, furniture, stocks, and much more.
Internally, they’re about the same. Your typical version2/3 gearbox parts are compatible with Classic Army’s gearbox. You can get reinforced gears (not likely you’ll need them), bore-up cylinder kits, nozzles, springs, tappet plates and so on. The best thing about upgrading a CA is that they already have metal bushings and great reinforced gears, all you need to do is swap out the spring.
One of our test models has been running continually with a Systema bore up kit and a PDI 150 spring on stock gears and motors since the day we bought it about 2 years ago. The gun was used every weekend (minus one or two every other month) in the wet Oregon environment. The stock gears and motor held up fine, but gear box finally gave up the ghost and cracked. When stress fracturing was evident along the front of the gearbox, JB Weld was applied and we got another game out of it before it died. This is a more than pleasing performance, as many highly upgraded guns don’t last even half this long before suffering some sort of breakdown.
Tactically Speaking
Nothing makes us laugh more then when somebody who bought an MP5K asks in the forums, “how do I increase accuracy and range of my AEG?” Well, first you can start with buying a real rifle. The Classic Army M15A4 Rifle is not a great indoor CQC tool, in fact, it’s not even that versatile to use anywhere but outdoors. Still, that’s how many of our players like it. If you’re the type of player who has his outdoor rig and his indoor rig, for the outdoors there’s nothing better than a good full length rifle. With that 509mm inner barrel, there’s just no way that an M4 length AR can compare.
With a tightbore barrel and a few FPS upgrades we shoot well enough to compete with the bolt action kiddies who think they’re sniper elites. (Though those who actually are good with their bolts can still manage to out plink us as it should be.)
If you’re looking for a quiet gun, this isn’t it. The stock AEG makes a beefy racket when fired. Now AEG’s obviously can’t compare to the noise of the real steel version, but you can tell when someone’s in the bushes firing one of these at you. The distinctive “clack-clack” is recognizable around the field. Depending on how you approach airsoft, this is a good or a bad thing. If you’re into the mil-sim aspect, the loudness only adds to the experience.
The Bottom Line
Overall we’re extremely happy with my M15A4. It’s obvious that Classic Army is a company that’s looking out for the future of mil-sim. They’re targeting the US market and they’re doing what they can to create products that we as mil-sim Airsofters can enjoy using time after time, and with the enhanced durability that their new lines are showing, we here at Airsoftpacific are sure to be making good use of their products for many years to come.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Beretta M92FS Elite CQB - Western Arms
like Berettas, but the vertical grip/rail framed styling of the Elite Vertecs has always left me a little cold. The sensual curves of the standard 92 design are lost in the Vertecs in the same way the Ferrari 348 lost the stylishness of the 328s that preceded it.
Experience with my TM S&W PC356 springer also led me to dislike the vertec grips (designed for people with small hands) from an ergonomic point of view.
However, this was the first time I'd actually encountered a Vertec Beretta, so perhaps the experience could overcome my preconceptions.
In the Box
This is standard fare for a Western Arms. The box is plain cardboard, with the gun, loading tool, allen key (for the Hop Up), small bag of BBs and a few manuals and other paperwork. The main manual relates to the M92FS range, whilst there's a strip down diagram specifically for the Elite CQB.
First Impressions
One thing you cannot say about Western Arms Berettas is that they look unrealistic. Even before you lift it from the box, the heavyweight material of the frame and slide and trademarked grips look solid and highly realistic.
Unlike the other KSC and WA Elites, the CQB has a plain black barrel, which lends it a lower key appearance than them, especially the Elite 2.
The Elite CQB is modelled on the gun Beretta call the Vertec. This features a modified frame, with a rail on the frame, under the barrel and a vertical backstrap to the grip, rather than the curved backstrap seen on normal M92s. The latter feature is designed to allow those with smaller hands better control of the trigger.
Closer Look
Picking the CQB up, it feels a good solid gun.
After handling a lot of 1911 derivatives, it was actually very good to have a modern pistol to handle. With double action, a decocker and ambidextrous safeties, the Beretta is a so much more user friendly gun than the Wilsons, Infinities and Para-Ordnances. Some will point out that the Beretta is less 'special', but sometimes something you can just pick up and shoot is just what the doctor ordered.
Other than the different shaped frame and grip, everything here is familiar M92FS/M9 Beretta. The Brigadier style slide is just like that on the other Elites and only the black barrel differentiates this immediately from the Elite 1A.
Markings on the gun are nothing extraordinary. The verbose WA/Beretta licensing agreement is on the front right of the frame (above the rail), whilst the front left bears the serial number "BER051502". The left side of the slide is marked "BERETTA USA CORP"/"ACKR.MO. USA" and the right "MOD. 92FS - ELITE - CQB"/"CAL. 9mm Parabellum - PATENTED". There is an ASGK mark above the trigger on the right side of the frame and the grips both bear the Beretta logo.
The decocker/safety (ambidextrous), disassembly lever, trigger, slide lock, trigger bar, serrated (skeletonised) hammer, magazine release (reversible as on all Beretta 92s and Cougars), recoil rod and front and rear sights are all metal.
The grips feature the trademark Elite 1A finish, described by Beretta as "Dual-textured thin polymer grips. Designed by a team of experienced pistol shooters, the innovative new grip panels on the Beretta Vertec have two different style gripping surfaces. Checkered at maximum friction points and pebbled exactly in those places where you need some freedom of movement, this revolutionary design improves both controllability and comfort. "
Whether they are identical on the WA is impossible for me to say. They feel like simple plastic, but the appearance certainly looks accurate to photographs of the real thing. Personally, I still found the Vertec grips too small to be truly comfortable. When I grip the gun, with distinctly average sized hands, there is a gap between the palm of my hand the back of the grip. I guess my hands are just made for the normally shaped Beretta grip.
The rear sight is a fixed unit, with two white dots. This is matched to the removable dovetail front sight, which features another white dot for quick acquisition. This all works well enough for a tactical, rather than target, pistol.
There are a couple of interesting features. Firstly, the CQB lacks the serrations seen on the front of the trigger guard on the standard M92s and the Elite 2.
Secondly, the gun comes with a bumperless magazine. All the other Elites have plastic (Rubber on the KSC) bumpers on the bottom of the magazine. Given some of the issues with some WA 92s with the standard magazine not being able to empty all 25 rounds on a single gas fill, I tried filling two magazines until no more gas would go in and then firing, quickly, repeatedly. On both occasions the gas ran out before the BBs, with 1 and 3 BBs remaining in the magazine. In warmer conditions, or with pauses between shots, it would probably be possible to empty the magazine on a single fill, but the decision to use the standard magazine is less than ideal, although I assume the thinking is to keep the CQB more compact and easier to insert and remove from a holster.
Finally, the recoil rod is worth a look. Rather than being a simple rod, as with the M92FS with a single spring, it has two springs. The main one, which extends forward to the slide and a shorter one behind a buffer, about an inch long, at the rear of the rod. This feature is shared with the Elite 2 and so, presumably, the other Elites.
Shooting Impressions
Like the Elite 2, the CQB has a good, sharp cycling action. Better than most of the standard 92s I have tried. The sights are clear and quick to acquire a target with, making the CQB and easy gun to come to terms with (which is exactly what Beretta intended).
Carrying out my standard 5m/6 round, off hand test, I was astounded to produce a cluster of 6 shots just 1 inch (2.5 CM) in diameter. This is even better than the Elite 2's 1.25 inch grouping. Repeat shooting also produced very tight clusters. This a very accurate airsoft pistol, suggesting the whole Elite range are very good. Power-wise, over 10 shots, the 92FS CQB averaged 252 fps (using 134a gas) indoors (around 10C).
Take Down
Take down is standard Beretta 92.
Remove the magazine. Push down the disassembly lever, whilst pushing the pin through from the other side of the frame.
Slide the slide, barrel and recoil spring/rod forward off of the frame.
The recoil spring and rod can be removed as a unit and the barrel can then be slid forward and then down and back to remove it from the slide.
Conclusions
Overall, the Elite CQB is an excellent Beretta from WA. It feels good, looks realistic and has all the normal attention to detail I've come to expect from WA. The cycling action is also better than I have experienced with standard WA 92s, being close to that of my Cougar and the Elite 2, both of which I consider very good by any standard.
What stands out as remarkable is the accuracy. Given the similarly good results with the Elite 2, the WA Beretta Elites seem to be strong challengers for most accurate GBB available.
Personally, I still would not buy a Vertec, but I found the Elite CQB to be much more to my liking than I expected and I fully acknowledge that it is only personal taste that would prevent me buying one.
If you don't actively dislike the Vertec grip, or want a railed Beretta, the Elite CQB, at ?112 (current price), is an excellent buy for any Beretta fan or even someone looking at their first WA pistol, being cheaper (in the UK) than a TM Tac Master.
All your airsoft needs can be found at www.discountairsoftstore.com

Experience with my TM S&W PC356 springer also led me to dislike the vertec grips (designed for people with small hands) from an ergonomic point of view.
However, this was the first time I'd actually encountered a Vertec Beretta, so perhaps the experience could overcome my preconceptions.
In the Box
This is standard fare for a Western Arms. The box is plain cardboard, with the gun, loading tool, allen key (for the Hop Up), small bag of BBs and a few manuals and other paperwork. The main manual relates to the M92FS range, whilst there's a strip down diagram specifically for the Elite CQB.

First Impressions
One thing you cannot say about Western Arms Berettas is that they look unrealistic. Even before you lift it from the box, the heavyweight material of the frame and slide and trademarked grips look solid and highly realistic.

Unlike the other KSC and WA Elites, the CQB has a plain black barrel, which lends it a lower key appearance than them, especially the Elite 2.

The Elite CQB is modelled on the gun Beretta call the Vertec. This features a modified frame, with a rail on the frame, under the barrel and a vertical backstrap to the grip, rather than the curved backstrap seen on normal M92s. The latter feature is designed to allow those with smaller hands better control of the trigger.
Closer Look
Picking the CQB up, it feels a good solid gun.
After handling a lot of 1911 derivatives, it was actually very good to have a modern pistol to handle. With double action, a decocker and ambidextrous safeties, the Beretta is a so much more user friendly gun than the Wilsons, Infinities and Para-Ordnances. Some will point out that the Beretta is less 'special', but sometimes something you can just pick up and shoot is just what the doctor ordered.
Other than the different shaped frame and grip, everything here is familiar M92FS/M9 Beretta. The Brigadier style slide is just like that on the other Elites and only the black barrel differentiates this immediately from the Elite 1A.

Markings on the gun are nothing extraordinary. The verbose WA/Beretta licensing agreement is on the front right of the frame (above the rail), whilst the front left bears the serial number "BER051502". The left side of the slide is marked "BERETTA USA CORP"/"ACKR.MO. USA" and the right "MOD. 92FS - ELITE - CQB"/"CAL. 9mm Parabellum - PATENTED". There is an ASGK mark above the trigger on the right side of the frame and the grips both bear the Beretta logo.

The decocker/safety (ambidextrous), disassembly lever, trigger, slide lock, trigger bar, serrated (skeletonised) hammer, magazine release (reversible as on all Beretta 92s and Cougars), recoil rod and front and rear sights are all metal.

The grips feature the trademark Elite 1A finish, described by Beretta as "Dual-textured thin polymer grips. Designed by a team of experienced pistol shooters, the innovative new grip panels on the Beretta Vertec have two different style gripping surfaces. Checkered at maximum friction points and pebbled exactly in those places where you need some freedom of movement, this revolutionary design improves both controllability and comfort. "

Whether they are identical on the WA is impossible for me to say. They feel like simple plastic, but the appearance certainly looks accurate to photographs of the real thing. Personally, I still found the Vertec grips too small to be truly comfortable. When I grip the gun, with distinctly average sized hands, there is a gap between the palm of my hand the back of the grip. I guess my hands are just made for the normally shaped Beretta grip.

The rear sight is a fixed unit, with two white dots. This is matched to the removable dovetail front sight, which features another white dot for quick acquisition. This all works well enough for a tactical, rather than target, pistol.
![]() | ![]() |
Secondly, the gun comes with a bumperless magazine. All the other Elites have plastic (Rubber on the KSC) bumpers on the bottom of the magazine. Given some of the issues with some WA 92s with the standard magazine not being able to empty all 25 rounds on a single gas fill, I tried filling two magazines until no more gas would go in and then firing, quickly, repeatedly. On both occasions the gas ran out before the BBs, with 1 and 3 BBs remaining in the magazine. In warmer conditions, or with pauses between shots, it would probably be possible to empty the magazine on a single fill, but the decision to use the standard magazine is less than ideal, although I assume the thinking is to keep the CQB more compact and easier to insert and remove from a holster.
Finally, the recoil rod is worth a look. Rather than being a simple rod, as with the M92FS with a single spring, it has two springs. The main one, which extends forward to the slide and a shorter one behind a buffer, about an inch long, at the rear of the rod. This feature is shared with the Elite 2 and so, presumably, the other Elites.
Shooting Impressions
Like the Elite 2, the CQB has a good, sharp cycling action. Better than most of the standard 92s I have tried. The sights are clear and quick to acquire a target with, making the CQB and easy gun to come to terms with (which is exactly what Beretta intended).

Carrying out my standard 5m/6 round, off hand test, I was astounded to produce a cluster of 6 shots just 1 inch (2.5 CM) in diameter. This is even better than the Elite 2's 1.25 inch grouping. Repeat shooting also produced very tight clusters. This a very accurate airsoft pistol, suggesting the whole Elite range are very good. Power-wise, over 10 shots, the 92FS CQB averaged 252 fps (using 134a gas) indoors (around 10C).
Take Down
Take down is standard Beretta 92.
Remove the magazine. Push down the disassembly lever, whilst pushing the pin through from the other side of the frame.
Slide the slide, barrel and recoil spring/rod forward off of the frame.
The recoil spring and rod can be removed as a unit and the barrel can then be slid forward and then down and back to remove it from the slide.

Conclusions
Overall, the Elite CQB is an excellent Beretta from WA. It feels good, looks realistic and has all the normal attention to detail I've come to expect from WA. The cycling action is also better than I have experienced with standard WA 92s, being close to that of my Cougar and the Elite 2, both of which I consider very good by any standard.

What stands out as remarkable is the accuracy. Given the similarly good results with the Elite 2, the WA Beretta Elites seem to be strong challengers for most accurate GBB available.
Personally, I still would not buy a Vertec, but I found the Elite CQB to be much more to my liking than I expected and I fully acknowledge that it is only personal taste that would prevent me buying one.
If you don't actively dislike the Vertec grip, or want a railed Beretta, the Elite CQB, at ?112 (current price), is an excellent buy for any Beretta fan or even someone looking at their first WA pistol, being cheaper (in the UK) than a TM Tac Master.
All your airsoft needs can be found at www.discountairsoftstore.com
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Airsoft Reviews
By reading up on air rifle reviews, you can find out which gun is best for you. It is always great if you can actually try out an air rifle before you buy it, but this is not often a possibility. Therefore, you are likely going to have to rely on air rifle reviews.
Think about what you want in an air rifle before you start reading air rifle reviews. After all, if a rifle is rated extremely highly because of its high power, but power is not the most important feature for you, you may want a different gun (if you are a beginner or you are looking for a gun for a child, you do not want an extremely powerful gun!).
Here are a few air rifle reviews ordered by top manufacturer:
Beeman air rifle reviews:
Beeman R9 .20 caliber. This is a dead on accurate gun. It is a good looking rifle with a nice stock and a good muzzle break. Good trigger and good handling as well as excellent mechanical quality.
Beeman R8. Smooth cocking, adequate power, very accurate, and long lasting. This is an impressive gun that most are going to really enjoy and appreciate.
Crosman air rifle reviews:
Crosman RM622. This gun has excellent accuracy, a great deal of power, and an excellent build quality. It also has good balance and looks sharp. It has very little recoil, too. It is great for adults who are just getting started with airgunning.
Crosman 766 American Classic. People like this gun because of its variable power. It also handles very well. It also has great accuracy.
Crosman 664x Powermaster. This one is an excellent value for the money. For being so inexpensive (generally falls into the less than $50 range), it is very accurate, powerful, and light (mostly made of plastic). It can even be made more accurate and powerful.
Daisy air rifle reviews:
Daisy 1000S. This is a very accurate and very powerful gun. It also looks like a real rifle and sounds very loud. The gun is a bit more expensive, but most would say that it is worth every cent.
Daisy Avanti 853C. For falling into the medium-price range, this air gun has great accuracy. It is a great gun for children (when under active adult supervision). It is a dependable and consistent gun.
Logun air rifle review:
* Logun Axsor Karbine .22. Great bolt action and very consistent. Walnut stock. There are few things that you are going to find wrong with this gun. It is a very good deal, overall.
Webley air rifle reviews:
Webley FX2000. Not only is this gun accurate, it is also stylish. It is also nice and quiet. Most people say that this air gun is consistent, as well.
Webley Stingray. It is accurate and also nice and light so that it is easy to hold steady. It is a great gun for beginners, more more advanced marksmen are sure to like it, as well. This is a good looking rifle.
http://www.bb-guns.org/infoairriflereviews.html
www.discountairsoftstore.com
Think about what you want in an air rifle before you start reading air rifle reviews. After all, if a rifle is rated extremely highly because of its high power, but power is not the most important feature for you, you may want a different gun (if you are a beginner or you are looking for a gun for a child, you do not want an extremely powerful gun!).
Here are a few air rifle reviews ordered by top manufacturer:
Beeman air rifle reviews:
Beeman R9 .20 caliber. This is a dead on accurate gun. It is a good looking rifle with a nice stock and a good muzzle break. Good trigger and good handling as well as excellent mechanical quality.
Beeman R8. Smooth cocking, adequate power, very accurate, and long lasting. This is an impressive gun that most are going to really enjoy and appreciate.
Crosman air rifle reviews:
Crosman RM622. This gun has excellent accuracy, a great deal of power, and an excellent build quality. It also has good balance and looks sharp. It has very little recoil, too. It is great for adults who are just getting started with airgunning.
Crosman 766 American Classic. People like this gun because of its variable power. It also handles very well. It also has great accuracy.
Crosman 664x Powermaster. This one is an excellent value for the money. For being so inexpensive (generally falls into the less than $50 range), it is very accurate, powerful, and light (mostly made of plastic). It can even be made more accurate and powerful.
Daisy air rifle reviews:
Daisy 1000S. This is a very accurate and very powerful gun. It also looks like a real rifle and sounds very loud. The gun is a bit more expensive, but most would say that it is worth every cent.
Daisy Avanti 853C. For falling into the medium-price range, this air gun has great accuracy. It is a great gun for children (when under active adult supervision). It is a dependable and consistent gun.
Logun air rifle review:
* Logun Axsor Karbine .22. Great bolt action and very consistent. Walnut stock. There are few things that you are going to find wrong with this gun. It is a very good deal, overall.
Webley air rifle reviews:
Webley FX2000. Not only is this gun accurate, it is also stylish. It is also nice and quiet. Most people say that this air gun is consistent, as well.
Webley Stingray. It is accurate and also nice and light so that it is easy to hold steady. It is a great gun for beginners, more more advanced marksmen are sure to like it, as well. This is a good looking rifle.
http://www.bb-guns.org/infoairriflereviews.html
www.discountairsoftstore.com
Monday, August 16, 2010
Airsoft Safety
Some good ideas from the good folks at http://www.myairsoftarmy.com/safety-1st/
Safety 1st
(Safety video at bottom of page)
Safety precautions should be followed at all times when using an airsoft gun. A player should take necessary precautions in public places, wear protective gear and be familiar with the velocity guidelines.
Basic Safety Rules
Always put your safety on when you are not using your airsoft gun.
All your airsoft needs can be filled at www.discountairsoftstore.com
Safety 1st
(Safety video at bottom of page) Safety precautions should be followed at all times when using an airsoft gun. A player should take necessary precautions in public places, wear protective gear and be familiar with the velocity guidelines.
Basic Safety Rules
• At all times, treat every airsoft gun as if it is loaded.
• When idle, keep the barrel pointed in a safe direction.
• Always be aware of what you’re aiming at.
• Do not keep your trigger finger rested on the trigger until your read to fire.
• Never leave your airsoft gun unattended while loaded.
• When idle, keep the barrel pointed in a safe direction.
• Always be aware of what you’re aiming at.
• Do not keep your trigger finger rested on the trigger until your read to fire.
• Never leave your airsoft gun unattended while loaded.
Public Places
Because most airsoft guns are replicas of real firearms, it is highly recommended to never display your airsoft gun in public. Airsoft should never be played at the following locations: malls, parks, stores, libraries, and schools.Protective Gear
You should ALWAYS wear impact-rated goggles to shield the eyes when using airsoft guns. If a player were shot in the unshielded eye, it would severely injure the eye. It is also recommended to use protective face masks and protective clothing to help absorb the impact from the airsoft gun pellets. The impact from the pellets can place tiny welts on bare skin fro a reasonable range.Always put your safety on when you are not using your airsoft gun.
Maximum Velocity Rule
The velocity limits are between 200ft/s and 500ft/s for Automatic Electric Guns (AEGs) and 400 and 500 ft/s for high end single shot spring airsoft guns. The velocity is usually measured using 0.2g pellets.Blind Man
In an airsoft game, a player can yell the words “Blind Man” if a player or bystander is seen without protective eye gear on. This will bring the game to a stand-still until the situation is resolved. Any player who hears the words “Blind Man”, must stop all play until all players are using eye protection.All your airsoft needs can be filled at www.discountairsoftstore.com
Monday, August 2, 2010
This is a great article:
Hotel transforms into military simulation battleground
Wendy Burton Phoenix Staff Writer
The Muskogee Hotel stands empty with little activity — until September when a military simulation event will take over for two days.Claymore-Frosty Productions will bring the “Fireproof Challenge” to the Muskogee Hotel and Coffeeshop, a city icon on the corner of North Main Street and Broadway, on Sept. 4 and 5.
However, there’s no fire involved, just firepower, in a military simulation event that Kelly “Claymore” McCoy and Blake “Frosty” Danyeur organized.
Twenty teams of eight from across the nation will compete to determine who is the top MilSim team in the country.
The simulation, or MilSim, involves highly skilled airsoft players dressing up in protective military gear and shooting each other with BB guns.
Not just a BB gun anyone can pick up at Walmart either, Danyeur said, but professional replicas of real military guns that only shoot 6mm plastic BBs.
Claymore-Frosty Productions holds the highest respect for members of the military, Danyeur said.
They do not allow participants to wear military insignia they didn’t earn and expect everyone to play honorably.
“That means that even if I get hit on the tip of the finger, I yell hit, hit, hit and I’m dead,” McCoy said. “This game requires honor.”
MilSim is for highly experienced players, while Airsoft groups play in the woods with less sophisticated equipment and are a good place for beginners to start.
The teams that participate in MilSim have to complete objectives designed by Danyeur and McCoy to simulate true military objectives.
They may have to rescue a hostage in a certain amount of time or find and disarm a dirty bomb, McCoy said.
“It’s very intense, very hardcore,” he said. “Not just anyone can play in these games, you have to be invited, and it takes a lot of experience.”
A practice MilSim event at the Muskogee Hotel is coming up soon as an opportunity for McCoy and Danyeur to plan and design the objectives for September.
Normally, MilSim is played in an outdoor setting, but the national event is set in a CQB setting — close quarter battle.
The four-story hotel has 149 rooms to utilize, a basement, three staircases, and 65,000 square feet of playable space.
McCoy and Danyeur already have staged some practice events at the hotel and said they were quite interesting experiences.
A CQB environment is very fast-paced, more dangerous, easier to get lost in, and in the case of the Muskogee Hotel and Coffeeshop — haunted, Danyeur said.
“It’s an environment to play where you are alive and sneaky one minute and dead the next second,” McCoy said. “The game is ever-changing.”
Reach Wendy Burton at 684-2926 or wburton @muskogeephoenix.com.
What to do
The general public is not invited to observe or participate for safety reasons, but anyone interested in beginning an Airsoft hobby can go to www.okairsoft.net to find local groups that allow beginners.
Information on MilSim events: www.MilSimEvent.net
http://muskogeephoenix.com/local/x1601576950/Hotel-transforms-into-military-simulation-battleground
For all your airsoft needs just go to www.discountairsoftstore.com
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Common Sense Airsoft Safety
Here are some basic rules that should keep you out of trouble:
- DO NOT use, expose, or show your Airsoft guns on public land or in plain public view.
- DO NOT play Airsoft games on public property such as schools, parks, or playgrounds.
- DO NOT play Airsoft games on private property WITHOUT the owner's permission.
When transporting your Airsoft be sure that it is completely concealed from public view and not readily identifiable as a weapon. In the event that you are confronted by law enforcement officers comply with all their requests.
Airsoft Safety:
Link to article: http://www.airsoftking.com/safety.htm
All your airsoft needs can be satisfied at www.discountairsoftstore.com
Monday, July 26, 2010
Good wisdom from the good folks at Airsoftgunhelp.com. Safety should always be first when you handle any firearm- airsoft or otherwise.
Remember, all your airsoft needs can be found at www.discountairsoftstore.com
Airsoft Safety

Many people are concerned that the realism of airsoft guns makes them dangerous. Parents need to be aware that giving an airsoft gun to irresponsible children can put their child in danger. In certain countries where real firearms are illegal the police and others may understand that children are playing with fake guns. In the United States, however, airsoft guns are regularly mistaken for real guns. Just as you would not brandish a real firearm in public, the same is true with airsoft guns. Airsoft guns are not cap guns or squirt guns. Be aware that if your child brings an airsoft gun to school or any other public place they may be arrested or, at worst, shot by a police officer.
If you are a parent and are reading this, thank you for taking responsibility and being pro-active in learning about airsoft guns. To learn more about airsoft gun safety please read on.
Not only do airsoft guns appear to be real, they also shoot plastic pellets. Many of the more expensive models such as AEGs are fully automatic. The speed at which airsoft bb's come out of airsoft guns is much slower than the speed that bb's are shot out of a traditional bb gun. Generally speaking, this speed allows people to shoot at each other with airsoft guns safely, under certain conditions. The first condition is eyewear. Never, ever, shoot at someone who is not wearing proper eye protection. Proper eye protection means eye goggles rated at least ANSI Z87.1 or paintball goggles. Proper eye protection is not military sun/dust/wind goggles, ski goggles, or shop goggles. Do not risk your own eyes or take on liability for your friend's eyes. Always wear proper eye protection when shooting airsoft guns! Read more about eye protection.
Also please be aware of the speeds at which all airsoft guns used in an airsoft game are shooting. Typical out-of-the-box airsoft guns shoot at ranges anywhere from 250 feet per second to 350 feet per second. Airsoft guns can be modified to shoot faster. Speeds between 375 feet per second and 400 feet per second are usually the maximum speeds US airsoft teams will allow. Make sure that anyone firing an airsoft gun over 400 feet per second is experienced, can accurately judge distance, and does not engage targets at close range. Never mix real bb guns into an airsoft gun game. If you are unsure of an airsoft gun's firing speed either buy a chronograph to measure the speed or simply do not allow it at a game.
The simplest rule to remember with airsoft guns is to treat them as real guns. An accidental discharge at close range can have any number of damaging results including, but not limited too, broken teeth and damaged eyes.
When transporting your gun to and from a game carry it in a gun case. Not only is a gun case the safest means of transportation it also naturally protects your gun (airsoft guns can be quite fragile) and makes a great place to store airsoft pistols and spare magazines. For many areas a gun case is the only way to legally transport your airsoft gun. Remember, it is very difficult to visibly distinguish an airsoft gun from a real gun.
Many people are concerned about the use of airsoft guns in crimes. A criminal is a criminal and will use whatever means they can to break the law. I would prefer a less dangerous criminal with an airsoft gun to a criminal armed with a real gun and the capability to kill innocent people.
Don't let any of these safety issues scare you away. Airsoft is not a dangerous sport as long as everyone playing understands safety. If you can not follow these rules please try another outdoor sport. When everyone follows the rules airsoft is just as safe as paintball. In 3 years of playing I never saw any serious accident. On a few occasions a BB at close range has drawn blood, but even that is rare. I have played in games with 50+ people without incident.
Last, but not least, before you play an airsoft game make sure that the airsoft teams that you are playing with have strict rules concerning safety and feet per second limits for guns involved. Good Luck!
Sunday, March 14, 2010
A great checklist for Airsoft safety
Thanks to the fellow Airsoft Warriors at Airsoft gun room for getting back to basics with safety. Safety is always the first priority.
You can visit us to get all your airsoft guns and accessories at our store www.discounairsoftstore.com.
10 Simple Safety Steps:
1. ALWAYS treat all guns, including airsoft guns, as if they were loaded.
2. NEVER point any gun, or airsoft gun, at anyone, or anything you are not willing to harm or destroy.
3. Never put your finger on the trigger until you are ready to fire.
4. Always know what is behind, BEYOND and to the sides of your target before you fire.
5. Always use protective eyewear or protective mask.
6. Minors (under 18 years of age) must NEVER use guns, or airsoft guns, without active, immediate adult supervision.
7. Be aware of all local and federal laws and regulations regarding the use of your airsoft gun. Contact your local police department for more information regarding the local, state and federal laws addressing use of airsoft guns.
8. Never carry or use your airsoft gun in a public place where it may be mistaken to be a real firearm. Brandishing a soft air gun in public may be illegal, a crime, and is dangerous, and may be harmful or fatal.
9. Never alter the color of any gun, or any part of any gun, including airsoft guns in any way. Doing so may be against Federal and State Law, and punishable as a crime.
10. Airsoft guns are not toys. Do not treat them as toys. If misused, they may be harmful or fatal.
You can visit us to get all your airsoft guns and accessories at our store www.discounairsoftstore.com.
10 Simple Safety Steps:
1. ALWAYS treat all guns, including airsoft guns, as if they were loaded.
2. NEVER point any gun, or airsoft gun, at anyone, or anything you are not willing to harm or destroy.
3. Never put your finger on the trigger until you are ready to fire.
4. Always know what is behind, BEYOND and to the sides of your target before you fire.
5. Always use protective eyewear or protective mask.
6. Minors (under 18 years of age) must NEVER use guns, or airsoft guns, without active, immediate adult supervision.
7. Be aware of all local and federal laws and regulations regarding the use of your airsoft gun. Contact your local police department for more information regarding the local, state and federal laws addressing use of airsoft guns.
8. Never carry or use your airsoft gun in a public place where it may be mistaken to be a real firearm. Brandishing a soft air gun in public may be illegal, a crime, and is dangerous, and may be harmful or fatal.
9. Never alter the color of any gun, or any part of any gun, including airsoft guns in any way. Doing so may be against Federal and State Law, and punishable as a crime.
10. Airsoft guns are not toys. Do not treat them as toys. If misused, they may be harmful or fatal.
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Airsoft Gun Safety
Air Soft Gun Safety

Despite their quite safe-sounding name, air soft guns can be very dangerous. With the right air soft gun safety equipment, you can shoot without fear of unexpected injury.
Air soft gun safety
It is MFI (Multirole Frontline Innovations) recommended that one wear a Snell Rated, full-faced motorcycle helmet, as well as a weather guard for you protection, and double thick face shield is very important. In addition, a bulletproof vest containing a steel insert, plastic hockey hip guards and forearm guards, knee guards and shin guards, steel toe combat boots and leather gloves. All of these are very important to the purpose of air soft gun safety.
More advice from the MFI:
Do not shoot anything other than an official safety target.
2) All protective gear mentioned will save you potential injury in areas of concern
on the body. The protective gear suggestions above are required for everyone who uses any type of bb guns. Air soft gun safety should be something every shooter, hunter or trainee should be conscious of.
THIS IS NOT A TOY! declares the MFI (in fact, it is anything but).
Experienced shooters only should use air soft guns, and always remember to practice air soft gun safety.
The air soft gun safety rules do not end here, however. Air soft gun safety will also depend on your level of skill. Often less experienced shooters will need to have someone experienced to supervise them.
Specific uses for the air soft gun for air soft gun safety are strictly advised. These are purposes limiting the use of air soft guns for people such as experienced firearms shooters, for films and theatrical productions, (of course, these productions always using the proper equipment for air soft gun safety when they do use air soft guns) as well as for weapons training purposes.
There are legal restrictions that one must be aware of to maintain, or in the very least, contain air soft gun safety as much as possible. To be careless or misuse these guns is to ignore laws, to ignore the potential injury of oneself or others, and to ignore the law. Remember above all else, that air soft gun safety is so important that it could even prevent death. There are definitely dangers to air soft guns, so above all else, exercise air soft gun safety
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Review of the JG MP5k PDW
Thanks to the good folks at Airsoftcanada. Great work!
This great airsoft rifle and all your airsoft accessories can be found at our store at www.discountairsotstore.com.
Jing Gong/Echo-1 MP5K PDW
This great airsoft rifle and all your airsoft accessories can be found at our store at www.discountairsotstore.com.
Jing Gong/Echo-1 MP5K PDW
Over the weekend, a friend brought over his newly acquired Echo-1 MP5K PDW for me to check out. We both own TM MP5Ks and was wondering how the Echo-1 would stack up. Externally besides triangle E1 trades, it looks identical to a TM MP5K. About the only thing I noticed was that the bullets for the fire selector don’t look quite as well defined as on a TM but I know I’m being picky there.
Some of the pictures are clickable for higher res versions.



Anyway the gun comes with a wall battery charger, an 8.4V 1100mAh NiMH battery, a low profile metal scope mount (installed backwards from the factory), some BBs, manuals, a short 20rd low cap mag and a long metal hi cap mag so you’re ready to go if you’re a novice or new player. The QD flash hider and smaller flash hider are painted neon orange as required by US law but not necessary here in Canada.
I forgot to weigh the gun but it’s approximately the same weight as my TM MP5K and size wise the gun is the same. The PDW stock fit my TM just fine, it looked so good I didn’t want to give it back.
Parts from my TM MP5K and the Echo-1 MP5K PDW were cross compatible, from mags to batteries and that awesome stock. Note, with the Echo-1 it was quite difficult to install the 8.4V stick battery because the stopper rail on top of the mechbox was bent awkwardly and brushing/scraping against the battery.
The gun is extremely loud when firing but I’ll be honest I had my doubts in terms of what the BB velocity would be after all the difficulty I had when trying to upgrade my TM MP5K. I loaded a low cap full of 0.2g BBs and let err rip. To my surprise according to my Guarder Speeder 2000 chrony, the gun was firing 340 fps out of the box! Shots varied a bit more than I would have liked between 330-340 on average but that’s rather impressive from a gun that’s so inexpensive.
Of course I can’t leave well enough alone so I decided to take the gun apart and take a peek inside. Tear down is exactly the same as with a TM MP5K and after removing the motor, I was greeted by this thick sticky paste that was plastered all over the motor. The mechbox at least from the outside looks like well a MP5K ver 3 mechbox.
Like with the JG G36C I reviewed earlier, the Echo-1 MP5K is full of sharp edges everywhere and if you’re not careful you can cut yourself quite easily. Definitely use caution when working inside this gun.
Here is how the mechbox looks when opened up and here’s a breakdown of all the major internal components. Echo-1 uses metal bushings, metal gears (which are not marked CA but weight wise are heavier than TM gears), plastic spring guide, plastic piston, plastic ventilated piston head. Echo-1 is suppose to have regreased the internals (and cleaned up the mess JG makes) however the gears had the smallest film of sticky green substance on it. I won’t call it a grease because at room temperature anyway the residue was almost a semisolid. I don’t know if other Echo-1 guns are like this, the MP5K PDW is the first of this brand that I’ve seen.
Unlike with the JG G36C there were no major problems internally with the electrical system or externally with the Echo-1 MP5K PDW. I cannot comment on its durability because it’s a brand new gun. Hopefully the thing will be as problem free as the JG G36C that I looked at earlier in the year. My friend who bought this gun is hard on his toys and always gives me the most “interesting” problems to diagnose. If there are any failures, I will update the review accordingly.



![]() | This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 800x108. |

Anyway the gun comes with a wall battery charger, an 8.4V 1100mAh NiMH battery, a low profile metal scope mount (installed backwards from the factory), some BBs, manuals, a short 20rd low cap mag and a long metal hi cap mag so you’re ready to go if you’re a novice or new player. The QD flash hider and smaller flash hider are painted neon orange as required by US law but not necessary here in Canada.
I forgot to weigh the gun but it’s approximately the same weight as my TM MP5K and size wise the gun is the same. The PDW stock fit my TM just fine, it looked so good I didn’t want to give it back.

The gun is extremely loud when firing but I’ll be honest I had my doubts in terms of what the BB velocity would be after all the difficulty I had when trying to upgrade my TM MP5K. I loaded a low cap full of 0.2g BBs and let err rip. To my surprise according to my Guarder Speeder 2000 chrony, the gun was firing 340 fps out of the box! Shots varied a bit more than I would have liked between 330-340 on average but that’s rather impressive from a gun that’s so inexpensive.
Of course I can’t leave well enough alone so I decided to take the gun apart and take a peek inside. Tear down is exactly the same as with a TM MP5K and after removing the motor, I was greeted by this thick sticky paste that was plastered all over the motor. The mechbox at least from the outside looks like well a MP5K ver 3 mechbox.
Like with the JG G36C I reviewed earlier, the Echo-1 MP5K is full of sharp edges everywhere and if you’re not careful you can cut yourself quite easily. Definitely use caution when working inside this gun.
Here is how the mechbox looks when opened up and here’s a breakdown of all the major internal components. Echo-1 uses metal bushings, metal gears (which are not marked CA but weight wise are heavier than TM gears), plastic spring guide, plastic piston, plastic ventilated piston head. Echo-1 is suppose to have regreased the internals (and cleaned up the mess JG makes) however the gears had the smallest film of sticky green substance on it. I won’t call it a grease because at room temperature anyway the residue was almost a semisolid. I don’t know if other Echo-1 guns are like this, the MP5K PDW is the first of this brand that I’ve seen.
Unlike with the JG G36C there were no major problems internally with the electrical system or externally with the Echo-1 MP5K PDW. I cannot comment on its durability because it’s a brand new gun. Hopefully the thing will be as problem free as the JG G36C that I looked at earlier in the year. My friend who bought this gun is hard on his toys and always gives me the most “interesting” problems to diagnose. If there are any failures, I will update the review accordingly.

Saturday, March 6, 2010
Review of the Classic Army M14 Scout
A great review from the good folks at Airsoftnews.eu - fantastic work as always.
This and all your airsoft needs can be found at our store www.discountairsoftstore.com.
Despite being a rather unsuccessful model at the time of the conception (its second coming in last couple of years validated its true worth) M14 can be called an iconic weapon. A direct descendant from legendary M1 Garand, this product of Springfield Armory has been produced in huge numbers. Its success as civilian sport and hunting rifle is only confirmed and reinforced by Law Enforcement and Military use.
One of the popular variations is M14 Scout. Actually, its official name, given by Springfield Armory is M1A Scout Squad Rifle:
New Springfield Armory Scout Squad Rifle Chambered in .308. Fast becoming a law enforcement favorite, the M1A Scout Squad rifle with forward mounted optical sight base provides an excellent platform for the Aimpoint military sight. Benefits are vastly improved target acquisition and unobstructed access to the receiver mechanism. Additional features include a quick handling 18" barrel, proprietary muzzle stabilizer and black fiberglass stock.
Description courtesy of Springfield Armory
Difference between standard M14 and M14 Scout is in length (M14 44,3 inch/ 112.5 cm versus 40,3 inch /102.4 cm of Scout M14); different flash hider/muzzle stabilizer, absence of bayonet stud and already mentioned forward mounted sight base.
Classic Army M14 was first seen on IWA 2007 and it made a very favourable impression. We tested version with black plastic stock, but several other versions, including wood stock are available. Colouring of stock is even, surface is textured; seam is barely noticeable. Replica is quite long, but there is no creaking- well, almost- with the exception of the heat shield. It moves and it creaks.
Is is not in danger of breaking (under normal circumstances, at least). A bit beefier heat shield would be preferred. Quick fact checking over Internet offers an explanation that at least GI Rifle heat shields are made out of hi temp polymer with fiberglass strands, so the CA's heat shield looks the part.
Trades are located at the back of the receiver. Inclusion of (laser engraved) individual serial number is always welcome. Receiver with markings (U.S. RIFLE/ 7.62MM M14/ SPRINGFIELD/ ARMORY) is diecasted.
Battery is stored in the stock. As all M14, Scout version has (metal) hinged stock plate, which covers door to battery space in stock. Doors are small (it is a bit annoying to squeeze the battery into the stock and even more annoying to fish the empty battery out) and are plastic.
Sling sviwels are fixed type and while they are functional, there are located bit awkwardly. Thankfully, there is plenty of excellent three point slings, which will facilitate as comfortable and versatile carrying as possible.
Fire selector switch is located on the right side of the receiver. It is a simple rotary switch (180 degree rotation), full auto setting is marked A.
Safety is located in the best place possible - trigger guard. You need to insert finger, flip the switch to forward position and start shooting.
As with all M14 sights, they are very good. Rear sight is adjustable by elevation and windage. Both knobs are very stiff and reassuringly click into position. Front blade type sight is windage adjustable and is copy of Smith Enterprise M14 Tritium Bar Combat Sight , naturally, without tritium insert. Its dovetail configuration allows windage adjustment according to users' preference.
Forward mounted optical sight base appears to be CNCed is MilStd 1913 Picatinny compatible rail. If you do plan to install an optic, you should look into direction of Eotech or Aimpoint. Choice between original and replica is left to you.
Magazine is a tricky part of this package. Why tricky? For one, only HiCap magazines are available (at the time of the writing this review, at least). They work great, but still, some users certainly prefer LowCap magazines. Secondly, inserting the magazine is a bit tricky. Reason is that the part of the gearbox is located in the magazine well and magazines are not flat on the top, but have a step. It is necessary first to lock the magazine to the tooth in the front of the magazine well; secondly, insert the magazine so it locks; thirdly, rock it gently forward, so it finally catches to the tooth. It is a bit complicated and annoying at first, but with some practice, it becomes second nature.
Magazine capacity is around 470 BBs. HiCap feeds reliably and there were no issues during the test. Magazine has some play in the magazine well, but nothing to despair about.
Level of details on CA M14 Scout is very good Some more obscure features are well replicated. For instance gas valve spindle moves; gas cylinder plug is removable. This shows dedication in replicating even smallest features.
Another nice feature is working bolt catch. HopUp dial is covered by port cover and you will have to pull handle backward to access it. If bolt catch is engaged, bolt will stay in open ("back") position. Word of caution: simulated extractor (lighter L shaped metal part on the top of the bolt) is glued to the place and during particularly violent testing session it fell off. Quick application of super glue saved the day.
And what about actual field use? Replica is quite heavy and despite being bit shorter than ordinary M14 it is still quite long. CA M14 Scout shoulders very well and iron sights are excellent. Ease of use is even more upgraded with installation of appropriate optical system. Bottom line, our test team agreed that CA M14 Scout is an excellent platform for DMR type platform.
And now something completely different- mechanical features.
First of all, Classic Army M14 gearbox is almost identical to gearbox, used in Guay Guay M14. There are also some differences, which will be discussed later on.
Compared to the Marui gearbox, I'd say that I prefer this version of the gearbox over Marui. It is simpler, but to each its own, I guess.
Gearbox is very heavy and its linear configuration is relatively uncommon, at least when compared with more usual V2/V3 gearboxes. Upon closer inspection we see that there is no slot for the cylinder, which makes closing the gearbox little more awkward than usually.
Gearbox uses 7mm oily metal bushings and metal spring guide. Most parts are standard products, found in the Classic Army's replicas. Spring is being an exception, as it is about 10% longer than standard spring. Also, nozzle is longer and thus incompatible with V2/V3 nozzles.
As mentioned, this gearbox is very similar to Guay Guay M14 gearbox. However, spring release lever function is missing on CA's gearbox.
In comparison with Chinese M14 gearboxes this one is much better in presentation and in overall quality. There is no imperfections and impression of the quality (no white nylon parts!) is there. Also, speed of work is also in favour of this type of gearbox. It may be a bit of redundant, but Classic Army gearboxes are every bit as good as their competition.
Hop up chamber is metal and very effective. When set, BBs fly at constant speeds around 320 fps (98 M/s) in very straight line.
So, is there anything we don't like? Absence of LowCap magazines for one. Inserting of the magazines is bit exotic, but nothing major. Lack of accessories... and that is it. Currently, this is only replica of M1A Scout in the market. Price is affordable, replica has excellent features... if you are thinking about getting a replica M14, Classic Army M14 is a more than viable option.
This and all your airsoft needs can be found at our store www.discountairsoftstore.com.
Despite being a rather unsuccessful model at the time of the conception (its second coming in last couple of years validated its true worth) M14 can be called an iconic weapon. A direct descendant from legendary M1 Garand, this product of Springfield Armory has been produced in huge numbers. Its success as civilian sport and hunting rifle is only confirmed and reinforced by Law Enforcement and Military use.

One of the popular variations is M14 Scout. Actually, its official name, given by Springfield Armory is M1A Scout Squad Rifle:
New Springfield Armory Scout Squad Rifle Chambered in .308. Fast becoming a law enforcement favorite, the M1A Scout Squad rifle with forward mounted optical sight base provides an excellent platform for the Aimpoint military sight. Benefits are vastly improved target acquisition and unobstructed access to the receiver mechanism. Additional features include a quick handling 18" barrel, proprietary muzzle stabilizer and black fiberglass stock.
Description courtesy of Springfield Armory

Difference between standard M14 and M14 Scout is in length (M14 44,3 inch/ 112.5 cm versus 40,3 inch /102.4 cm of Scout M14); different flash hider/muzzle stabilizer, absence of bayonet stud and already mentioned forward mounted sight base.

Classic Army M14 was first seen on IWA 2007 and it made a very favourable impression. We tested version with black plastic stock, but several other versions, including wood stock are available. Colouring of stock is even, surface is textured; seam is barely noticeable. Replica is quite long, but there is no creaking- well, almost- with the exception of the heat shield. It moves and it creaks.
Is is not in danger of breaking (under normal circumstances, at least). A bit beefier heat shield would be preferred. Quick fact checking over Internet offers an explanation that at least GI Rifle heat shields are made out of hi temp polymer with fiberglass strands, so the CA's heat shield looks the part.

Trades are located at the back of the receiver. Inclusion of (laser engraved) individual serial number is always welcome. Receiver with markings (U.S. RIFLE/ 7.62MM M14/ SPRINGFIELD/ ARMORY) is diecasted.

Battery is stored in the stock. As all M14, Scout version has (metal) hinged stock plate, which covers door to battery space in stock. Doors are small (it is a bit annoying to squeeze the battery into the stock and even more annoying to fish the empty battery out) and are plastic.
Sling sviwels are fixed type and while they are functional, there are located bit awkwardly. Thankfully, there is plenty of excellent three point slings, which will facilitate as comfortable and versatile carrying as possible.

Fire selector switch is located on the right side of the receiver. It is a simple rotary switch (180 degree rotation), full auto setting is marked A.
Safety is located in the best place possible - trigger guard. You need to insert finger, flip the switch to forward position and start shooting.
As with all M14 sights, they are very good. Rear sight is adjustable by elevation and windage. Both knobs are very stiff and reassuringly click into position. Front blade type sight is windage adjustable and is copy of Smith Enterprise M14 Tritium Bar Combat Sight , naturally, without tritium insert. Its dovetail configuration allows windage adjustment according to users' preference.

Forward mounted optical sight base appears to be CNCed is MilStd 1913 Picatinny compatible rail. If you do plan to install an optic, you should look into direction of Eotech or Aimpoint. Choice between original and replica is left to you.

Magazine is a tricky part of this package. Why tricky? For one, only HiCap magazines are available (at the time of the writing this review, at least). They work great, but still, some users certainly prefer LowCap magazines. Secondly, inserting the magazine is a bit tricky. Reason is that the part of the gearbox is located in the magazine well and magazines are not flat on the top, but have a step. It is necessary first to lock the magazine to the tooth in the front of the magazine well; secondly, insert the magazine so it locks; thirdly, rock it gently forward, so it finally catches to the tooth. It is a bit complicated and annoying at first, but with some practice, it becomes second nature.

Magazine capacity is around 470 BBs. HiCap feeds reliably and there were no issues during the test. Magazine has some play in the magazine well, but nothing to despair about.
Level of details on CA M14 Scout is very good Some more obscure features are well replicated. For instance gas valve spindle moves; gas cylinder plug is removable. This shows dedication in replicating even smallest features.

Another nice feature is working bolt catch. HopUp dial is covered by port cover and you will have to pull handle backward to access it. If bolt catch is engaged, bolt will stay in open ("back") position. Word of caution: simulated extractor (lighter L shaped metal part on the top of the bolt) is glued to the place and during particularly violent testing session it fell off. Quick application of super glue saved the day.
And what about actual field use? Replica is quite heavy and despite being bit shorter than ordinary M14 it is still quite long. CA M14 Scout shoulders very well and iron sights are excellent. Ease of use is even more upgraded with installation of appropriate optical system. Bottom line, our test team agreed that CA M14 Scout is an excellent platform for DMR type platform.
And now something completely different- mechanical features.

First of all, Classic Army M14 gearbox is almost identical to gearbox, used in Guay Guay M14. There are also some differences, which will be discussed later on.
Compared to the Marui gearbox, I'd say that I prefer this version of the gearbox over Marui. It is simpler, but to each its own, I guess.
Gearbox is very heavy and its linear configuration is relatively uncommon, at least when compared with more usual V2/V3 gearboxes. Upon closer inspection we see that there is no slot for the cylinder, which makes closing the gearbox little more awkward than usually.


Gearbox uses 7mm oily metal bushings and metal spring guide. Most parts are standard products, found in the Classic Army's replicas. Spring is being an exception, as it is about 10% longer than standard spring. Also, nozzle is longer and thus incompatible with V2/V3 nozzles.


As mentioned, this gearbox is very similar to Guay Guay M14 gearbox. However, spring release lever function is missing on CA's gearbox.
In comparison with Chinese M14 gearboxes this one is much better in presentation and in overall quality. There is no imperfections and impression of the quality (no white nylon parts!) is there. Also, speed of work is also in favour of this type of gearbox. It may be a bit of redundant, but Classic Army gearboxes are every bit as good as their competition.

Hop up chamber is metal and very effective. When set, BBs fly at constant speeds around 320 fps (98 M/s) in very straight line.

So, is there anything we don't like? Absence of LowCap magazines for one. Inserting of the magazines is bit exotic, but nothing major. Lack of accessories... and that is it. Currently, this is only replica of M1A Scout in the market. Price is affordable, replica has excellent features... if you are thinking about getting a replica M14, Classic Army M14 is a more than viable option.
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